3D_Printing/Ender_3_S1_Plus_Setup.md

# Ender 3 S1 Plus Setup

- [Ender 3 S1 Plus Setup](#ender-3-s1-plus-setup)
  - [Cura Settings](#cura-settings)
    - [Speed](#speed)
  - [Leveling](#leveling)
  - [Home offset](#home-offset)
  - [ESteps](#esteps)
  - [GCode](#gcode)
  - [Print Techniques](#print-techniques)
    - [Collapsible Lightsabers](#collapsible-lightsabers)

## Cura Settings

### Speed

You can really cut down on print time with jerk control. The limit for my stock ender 3 s1
plus is around 30mm/s jerk and 160mm/s print speed. Here are my recommended settings for a faster
print than stock while retaining good quality:

| Setting             | Value   |
| ------------------- | ------- |
| Print speed         | 160mm/s |
| Wall speed          | 80mm/s  |
| Top/Bottom speed    | 80mm/s  |
| Initial Layer Speed | 80mm/s  |
| Print Jerk          | 16mm/s  |

The effectiveness of these settings is pretty dramatic. Switching from Cura's stock 60mm/s speed
with 15mm/s initial layer to these settings takes a 31 hour print down to 18 hours with no quality
decrease.

In theory you could increase jerk to 30mm/s and run the whole print at 160mm/s. This would shave
another ~6? hours off the print. I've not had much success at these speeds.

This printer's kryptonite is instant change in velocity. The print head and plate are heavy enough
that the printer will vibrate itself apart if not slowed down before changing direction. For
example, at 60mm/s print jerk the wheels spin themselves off the build plate and the belt starts
slipping.

## Leveling

It's extremely important that you follow the leveling procedure below

1. Home the z axis
2. Set a negative offset until  the nozzle touches the bed
3. Move the offset up until the nozzle lifts up from the bed, then go one more up
4. Go through each corner, rotate the adjustment wheels until the nozzle is just barely above the bed. Don’t worry about being super accurate, mesh leveling will handle any small variances
5. Re-home the Z axis. This is important because we’ve just shifted the bed’s position.
6. Re-check that the nozzle is just above the print surface in the center of the bed
7. print a benchy, adjust the z offset as needed

## Home offset

My printer kept hitting the screws in the print bed. You can set a y offset with the following

```text
m206 y5
```

Get the current offset with:

```text
m503
```

## ESteps

Get the current esteps

```text
m503
```

Set the correct offset with M92

```text
m92 E403.655
```

## GCode

Start GCode

```text
; OctoLapse Slicer Auto-Detection
; Script based on an original created by tjjfvi (https://github.com/tjjfvi)
; An up-to-date version of the tjjfvi's original script can be found
; here:  https://csi.t6.fyi/
; Note - This script will only work in Cura V4.2 and above!
; --- Global Settings
; layer_height = {layer_height}
; smooth_spiralized_contours = {smooth_spiralized_contours}
; magic_mesh_surface_mode = {magic_mesh_surface_mode}
; machine_extruder_count = {machine_extruder_count}
; --- Single Extruder Settings
; speed_z_hop = {speed_z_hop}
; retraction_amount = {retraction_amount}
; retraction_hop = {retraction_hop}
; retraction_hop_enabled = {retraction_hop_enabled}
; retraction_enable = {retraction_enable}
; retraction_speed = {retraction_speed}
; retraction_retract_speed = {retraction_retract_speed}
; retraction_prime_speed = {retraction_prime_speed}
; speed_travel = {speed_travel}

; M413 S0 ; Disable power loss recovery
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

; Prep surfaces before auto home for better accuracy
; M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temperature
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; set bed temperature and wait

; If bed adhesion not working
; Click “Settings” > “ADV.SET” > “Restore All Set.” > “Yes”
; Click “Settings” > “Leveling”, It will auto home and return to origin
; Place a sheet of A4 paper on the platform
; Click on “①”, and adjust the offset value down until the paper has slight friction feeling
; Click ②~⑤ in turn, rotate the corresponding leveling nut until it feel a slight sense of friction. Get all of them to have the same feeling for the best result.
; Counterclockwise the nut to move the platform away from the nozzle. Clockwise move closer to the nozzle.
; After finished, click “AUTO. LVL.” > “Start” to do Auto leveling
; Return to main menu and start printing

; level before heating the nozzle to prevent rogue plastic deposits
G28 ; HOME ALL AXES
G29 ; CREATE NEW MESH
M500 ; SAVE NEW MESH
M420 S1 Z3 ; RETRIEVE & USE LAST SAVED MESH
G1 Z10.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0 Y0
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position

; M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set hotend temperature
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ; set hotend temperature and wait

; G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
; G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
; G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
; G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish
```

End GCode

```text
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positioning

G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed

M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
```

## Print Techniques

### Collapsible Lightsabers

Adjust wipe - 1-3mm seems to do the trick

Print the test blade. It should come off the print without the rings fusing to eachother.

![SWORD-TEST PRINT.stl](.attachments.216157/SWORD-TEST%20PRINT.stl)