diff --git a/Ender_3_S1_Plus_Setup.md b/Ender_3_S1_Plus_Setup.md index 823e868..79779d7 100644 --- a/Ender_3_S1_Plus_Setup.md +++ b/Ender_3_S1_Plus_Setup.md @@ -1,17 +1,54 @@ # Ender 3 S1 Plus Setup +- [Ender 3 S1 Plus Setup](#ender-3-s1-plus-setup) + - [Cura Settings](#cura-settings) + - [Speed](#speed) + - [Leveling](#leveling) + - [Home offset](#home-offset) + - [ESteps](#esteps) + - [GCode](#gcode) + - [Print Techniques](#print-techniques) + - [Collapsible Lightsabers](#collapsible-lightsabers) + +## Cura Settings + +### Speed + +You can really cut down on print time with jerk control. The limit for my stock ender 3 s1 +plus is around 30mm/s jerk and 160mm/s print speed. Here are my recommended settings for a faster +print than stock while retaining good quality: + +| Setting | Value | +| ------------------- | ------- | +| Print speed | 160mm/s | +| Wall speed | 80mm/s | +| Top/Bottom speed | 80mm/s | +| Initial Layer Speed | 80mm/s | +| Print Jerk | 16mm/s | + +The effectiveness of these settings is pretty dramatic. Switching from Cura's stock 60mm/s speed +with 15mm/s initial layer to these settings takes a 31 hour print down to 18 hours with no quality +decrease. + +In theory you could increase jerk to 30mm/s and run the whole print at 160mm/s. This would shave +another ~6? hours off the print. I've not had much success at these speeds. + +This printer's kryptonite is instant change in velocity. The print head and plate are heavy enough +that the printer will vibrate itself apart if not slowed down before changing direction. For +example, at 60mm/s print jerk the wheels spin themselves off the build plate and the belt starts +slipping. + ## Leveling It's extremely important that you follow the leveling procedure below 1. Home the z axis -2. Navigate to leveling and select Aux Lvl. Do not press auto level- it breaks the printer -3. Set a negative offset until the nozzle touches the bed -4. Move the offset up until the nozzle lifts up from the bed, then go one more up -5. Go through each corner, rotate the adjustment wheels until the nozzle is just barely above the bed. Don’t worry about being super accurate, mesh leveling will handle any small variances -6. Re-home the Z axis. This is important because we’ve just shifted the bed’s position. -7. Re-check that the nozzle is just above the print surface in the center of the bed -8. print a benchy, adjust the z offset as needed +2. Set a negative offset until the nozzle touches the bed +3. Move the offset up until the nozzle lifts up from the bed, then go one more up +4. Go through each corner, rotate the adjustment wheels until the nozzle is just barely above the bed. Don’t worry about being super accurate, mesh leveling will handle any small variances +5. Re-home the Z axis. This is important because we’ve just shifted the bed’s position. +6. Re-check that the nozzle is just above the print surface in the center of the bed +7. print a benchy, adjust the z offset as needed ## Home offset